I've been dithering for ages now about doing a stone setting course.
My stone setting is all self-taught, which means I don't do it in the
most logical or time-efficient manner. It also usually results in more
swearing than is strictly ladylike.
I've been looking at different
courses for so long, but options seemed limited to the super-basic,
which would have been a bit of a waste of time and the advanced,
incorporating pave and channel setting. What I really wanted to learn
was the correct way to do tube, round claw, V-claw and flush setting.
So,
I started looking into private tuition. Options in London seemed
limited to Holts (probably amazing, but well outside my budget) and the
London Jewellery school, who could only offer me two separate days some
months apart and weren't able to give me the name of the tutor I would
have. I just wasn't comfortable signing up for something without being
able to see the tutor's previous stone setting work beforehand.
Eventually, some extensive googling led me to Guy Whitney and the
Whitney Jewellery School.
It's in Brigg, a small village just outside of Scunthorpe, which was
obviously a bit of a trek from London, especially as part of the train
journey was by way of replacement bus. I emailed Guy and spoke to him
on the telephone, told him what I wanted to learn and booked three days
tuition. He was very friendly and helpful right from the start.
The
cost of the tuition is £95 per day, which I think is brilliant value
given that I was the only student there for those three days and for
stone setting courses he only teaches a maximum of two students at any
one time. On top of that is the cost of the metal and stones that you
use - all the castings and stones are provided by Guy based on what you
want to cover so you don't have to worry about taking anything with you -
and any tools you want to purchase (which you will!).
The Whitney
Jewellery School workshop is a great place to learn - full of light and
amazing tools and equipment. Guy's lovely daughter, Emma (also a
jeweller) helps run the school and very kindly came to get me when my
sense of direction failure kicked in and I couldn't find the place!
Here it is:
We
started off with a pear shaped setting, as this was one of the shapes I
really struggle with and want to perfect so I can add little raindrops
to some new rings I've designed for my Rain or Shine range.
Work in progress:
And finished, together with the tube setting, which it turns out I was doing entirely wrong!
I
found Guy's teaching style great - he shows you in detail how to do
each thing to start and then has you do exactly the same thing, checking
in on you frequently. I have a few books on stone setting that have
detailed diagrams of technique, but really nothing beats watching a
master craftsman at work!
Learning how to use the correct tools
was also a bit of a revelation. My stone setting tools are ones I
bought at college and were all entirely wrong for my little hands. Guy
makes his own setting tools, and uses GRS quick change gravers (not
cheap but so worth it for the elimination of graver-related faffing) and
you can buy a little kit at the end of the course to take away with
you, which I'd thoroughly recommend doing.
The
Whitney Jewellery School also uses the GRS Benchmate system, which I'd
never heard of before, but found an absolute game changer for jewellery
work. It's difficult to describe, so if you want more information on it
check out the
GRS website, but basically it looks a bit like this, with interchangable parts (bench pin etc) for different tasks.
Another couple of different shaped settings as work in progress, and a couple of shots of all my finished rings.
I
also had a go at learning a couple of more complicated settings, pave
and flush set. I struggled a bit with the pave - raising and shaping
the grains I was fine with, but cutting around them in the different
shapes is going to require a LOT more practice! I shall persevere,
however, and will probably go back to the jewellery school next year for
a day to concentrate on the pave.
The
flush setting I thought I wasn't going to be able to do - it's always
been a bit of a mystery to me how the stones are fixed into the surface
of the metal. However, this one I managed to pick up far easier than
the pave. Some various attempts at both:
And my little flush set stone. I'll definitely be using this technique more!
In
conclusion, I would thoroughly recommend the Whitney Jewellery school
for stone setting tuition. I felt like I learned so much over the
course of the three days. I also had a lovely time, as Guy and Emma are
both friendly and professional, and Guy also has loads of useful tips
on goldsmithing techniques and tools.
I've
been saving up a whole bunch of stuff that need stones set in until
after I'd done this course, so I'll be sharing them with you shortly.
